Cultivating greater capability
Global Sources, Singapore
Models adorned with diamonds, semiprecious stones and Swarovski crystals dominate the latest releases.
Makers of pearl jewelry from both sides of the Taiwan Strait are taking diverse steps to boost competitiveness.
Mainland China is the biggest producer of cultured freshwater pearls, accounting for 90 percent of world supply. In fact, more than 1,500 tons of freshwater pearls, valued at about $4 billion, were cultivated there last year. The coastal provinces of Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Hainan are home to the largest farms.
This is the prime advantage jewelry makers in the mainland have over Taiwan counterparts. Some suppliers even have the capability to cultivate their own pearls, including one company interviewed for this report.
Moreover, the mainland’s pearl jewelry exports have been rising steadily, registering 25 percent growth in the past three years. Suppliers are optimistic of an additional 20 percent increase in shipments in 2008.
Even with such benefits, the majority of companies focus on OEM and have weak R&D. This is inhibiting them from establishing their own brands. At present, OBM orders make up only 10 percent of annual sales.
To bolster capability, suppliers are sending their R&D teams to various trade shows to keep them updated on the latest design trends and cultivation technology. Several have also started researching better ways of farming that could yield bigger, higher-quality pearls.
In Taiwan, meanwhile, many makers are moving their factories to the mainland to exploit the lower operating and material costs there. Currently, only 50 suppliers still have factories in the island.
Taiwan companies are also launching midrange and high-end models that incorporate diamonds, semiprecious stones and Swarovski crystals.
Among the mainland suppliers interviewed for this report, Shanghai Unique Pearl Trading Co. Ltd has a pearl farm in Poyang Lake in Jiangsu. Prior to production, the gemstone is checked for quality at the Shanghai Institute of Measurement and Testing Technology.
On new models, the material is interspersed with semiprecious stones such as turquoise and opal, and rhinestones. These are set in 925 silver or metal alloy.
Mother-of-pearl jewelry is also offered.
Resharn International Co. Ltd sources the gem from a 20,000sqm farm in Zhuji, Zhejiang. The company’s products feature 2 to 12mm pearls set in gold- or platinum-plated silver or brass. Prices go from $10 to $30. Models are checked for rhodium content before packaging.
L&G Jewelry Co. Ltd also purchases cultured freshwater pearls in Zhuji. Concentrating on the EU market, it offers gold-plated metal alloy pieces adorned with CZs and pearls in their natural colors or dyed. Pearl dyeing is subcontracted to a specialist factory.
Products are free from nickel and lead.
Earrings from V-like Industrial (Hong Kong) Co. Ltd are priced between $2 and $5 per pair. The company also offers necklaces, bracelets and rings, using pearls dyed in pink, black and brown. Semiprecious stones and CZs are used as trimming.
V-like maintains an abundant stock of pearls at its 200sqm factory to ensure expedient processing of orders. The material is sent to SGS for testing prior to production.
Taiwan-based Belong 2 Co. embellishes models with CZs, Swarovski crystals, jade and diamonds. It purchases pearls in Zhejiang and Jiangsu and exports mainly to the UK and Asia.
Apart from its Taipei factory, the company has mainland plants in Guangzhou and Zhuhai in Guangdong.
Necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings from Origem Industrial Co. Ltd, also of Taiwan, are shipped mostly to Europe and the Middle East. The pearls range from 8 to 12mm in diameter. These are sourced from the mainland.
Designs can be adorned with diamonds, crystals and semiprecious gemstones.
Intercuir Corp. is a Taiwan supplier of freshwater pearls sized from 8 to 10mm. Agate and CZs are incorporated in models to add visual appeal.
