The deceptively plain stone wakes up to the light and transforms to reflect the wearer
By Kathy Schultz
“The first time I saw labradorite, I thought it was an ugly, sludgy gray — but it had fire,” says local jewelry designer Shamila Jiwa. My sentiments exactly. But when I met Jiwa, she was wearing a stunning necklace with such fluorescence that I was converted.
“It’s the quality,” Jiwa says. “I sought out the best of it and started using it in my jewelry.” The stone that was so initially unappealing has become the signature material of the designer’s collection.
Mined in Labrador, a province of Canada, high-quality labradorite possesses amazing chameleonlike qualities. The feldspar-based stone is capable of transforming itself depending on the light it refracts.
Known as the Schiller effect and labradoresence, its very makeup (to be technical, the stone contains platelets of minute inclusions such as ilmenite and rutiles) is responsible for its fiery properties. And since light is constantly in flux within any environment, the stone itself can reflect numerous shades of blue, green, purple, gold, orange, yellow and red.
“It absolutely goes with everything, taking on the palette of the dominant color of whatever you’re wearing,” Jiwa says. “The stone complements, rather than competes with, your outfit.”
The moody, deep-colored hues of fall, such as cobalt, charcoal, plum, teal, royal blue and aubergine, are the perfect backdrop for this earthy element. Jiwa believes that if you only have one gemstone necklace, it should be labradorite.
The designer has created a collection of earrings and necklaces out of this special stone, along with metals from sterling silver to gold fill and gold vermeil. Minimalists will like a classic pair of heart-shaped earrings. For something swingy and sexy, choose the long duster earrings that tickle the shoulders, or a pair that incorporate London blue topaz, with hand-hammered gold rings.
Necklace designs range from the multi-stone luxe boa necklace to simpler affairs with solitaires, tri-stone pendulums and lariats you can layer. They feature faceted or smooth polished labradorites in a variety of shapes. Jiwa also uses other gemstones she loves, including brilliant gold rutilated quartz, seafoam chalcedony, and London blue topaz.
“I believe in showcasing the natural beauty of the stone, and to let my design aesthetic frame the specimen in a simple and elegant way,” says the self-taught designer and gemologist, who is inspired by her travels. The daughter of eastern Indian parents, she grew up in Tanzania and often accompanied her father to the local goldsmith, where she watched him design special jewelry for her family.
During her anthropological studies, the multilingual designer (she speaks Gujarati, Kutchi, Swahili, Hindi and French fluently) discovered the talismans of beauty and protection used in the rituals of various cultures. “Labradorite is often referred to as the ‘stone of new beginnings.’ It builds strength and assists with life’s intense transitions,” she says. “Maybe that’s one of the reasons I like it.”
Each piece of jewelry comes in a little pillow pouch with a printed “story” about the stone. You’ll find Jiwa’s jewelry online at www.shamila.com, at Venue in Ballard and at the Seattle Art Museum downtown. Prices range from $88 to $1,200. Custom designs are available upon request.
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Source: www.nwsource.com/shopping/fashion/
